Cat Care

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Free-ranging and feral cats lead complex and busy lives. They maintain large territories that often contain a variety of habitats (forest, farmland, urban gardens, etc.). They explore, they hunt, they scavenge for food, and they might interact with other cats. In contrast, household cats, especially those who live exclusively indoors, have little to do and boredom may set in.

Even if you don’t think that your cat seems bored, there are a number of good reasons to provide enrichment opportunities for your feline friend.

• Cats who lack enrichment can be aggressive in play, both with people and with other animals in the household.

• Young cats without planned enrichment opportunities often pester their pet parents for play at inappropriate hours of the day and night. They may also interact destructively with furniture, plants or other objects in the house.

• Cats lacking enrichment can become reclusive and are more likely to retreat from new people or objects that enter their homes than cats who are frequently exposed to a variety new sights and sounds.

• Cats lacking regular play may be more attracted to perches by windows. When looking outside, they may overreact to the presence of outdoor cats they can see and become very distressed.

Great Ways to Enrich Your Cat’s Life
Enrichment opportunities can easily be provided for cats. Here are some ideas to try:

• Provide a variety of toys for your cat. Some cats prefer toys that they can throw around themselves. Other cats prefer toys that require owner participation, such as those you wiggle and dangle. Stimulating play for a cat involves opportunities to “hunt,” so move toys in such a way that they mimic the movements of a rodent or bird. Introduce new toys periodically to keep your cat from becoming bored with her toys. Please see our article, Cat Toys, for fun toy recommendations and tips on playing with your cat.

• Provide objects for your cat to explore, such as cardboard boxes, paper shopping bags, packing paper and toys that encourage her to investigate various holes with her paws. A dripping water tap can provide hours of fun! An aquarium with real fish or even a bowl of fake fish that move around can fascinate your cat. Rotate playtime objects frequently so that your cat doesn’t become bored.

• Some cats appreciate the commercially available “cat videos.” The most popular ones contain close-ups of birds and small rodents. Many cats can watch the same videotape for hours each day, tracking the animals’ movements, growling or chirruping and swatting at the screen. Your cat might even enjoy watching a lava lamp! (Take care that she can’t burn herself if she touches the lamp.)

• Cats love to watch birds, squirrels and other small animals. Position bird and squirrel feeders outside windows where your cat can observe animals coming and going during the day. If you live in an apartment, you can attach bird feeders directly to the outside of your windows.

• Provide several small meals per day rather than one or two large meals. Also avoid “free feeding” (keeping your cat’s bowl full all the time). If your schedule doesn’t permit giving multiple meals, you can purchase a feeder with a built-in timer, designed to open according to a preset schedule.

• Teach your cat to walk on a leash with a harness, such as the Gentle Leader® Come with Me Kitty™ Harness and Bungee Leash. Going on leashed walks is a safe way to take your indoor cat on outdoor adventures. To be safe, make sure your cat always wears ID tags on her collar when walking outside. Please see our article, Teaching Your Cat to Walk on Leash, to learn more about taking your cat on walks.

• If your have the space, build an enclosed outdoor area where your cat can spend time when the weather is nice. Cats will spend hours watching leaves blow in the wind, birds flying and squirrels scampering around. If you can’t have an outdoor enclosure, try creating a window perch where your cat can easily sit and look out the window.

• Training your cat can give her a great mental workout. Just like dogs, cats can learn a number of useful behaviors and fun tricks, like sit, come when called and shake. To learn how to get started, please see our articles, Training Your Cat and Clicker Training Your Pet.

Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2010 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

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A Cat and Her Claws
A cat’s claws are an integral part of who she is. Cats are exceptional hunters, excellent climbers and specialists in personal defense – thanks in great part to their unique protractile (extendable) claws. They also use their claws as social signaling instruments, leaving messages on surfaces to tell other cats where they frequent.

Although an indoor cat doesn’t need to use her claws to hunt, will probably never need to defend herself and may have no other cats around to leave messages for, her claws and their care will still influence her natural behavior. Because her claws grow in layers, she’ll frequently feel the need to sharpen them against coarse materials to remove the worn and fraying outer layer. In addition, she’ll use her claws in play, often extending them but purposely inhibiting the precision of her paw swipes. Unfortunately, while this use of her claws is natural, normal behavior for a cat, it can create certain problems for her pet parents.

However, scratching and other claw use in cats is much easier to manage than most people realize. You can teach your cat to direct her scratching toward appropriate targets.  You can also use plastic caps on your cat’s claws (Soft Claws®). However, a simpler and easier solution is to regularly trim them yourself. Although the thought of trimming your cat’s claws may be intimidating, if you do a bit of preparation in advance, proceed slowly and follow the guidelines below, the procedure can be relatively trouble-free and painless for everyone.

Should You Declaw Your Cat?
Some people declaw their cats to prevent or resolve a scratching problem. The term “declaw” is a misnomer because it implies that only the claws are removed. In reality, declawing (onychectomy) involves 10 separate amputations of the last bones of your cat’s toes-including nerve, joint capsule, collateral ligaments and the extensor and flexor tendons. Cats suffer significant pain while recovering from these amputations. An alternative surgery, a tendonectomy, severs the tendons in a cat’s toes so that she’s unable to extend her claws to scratch. This procedure is also very painful for a cat. In addition, if you choose this type of surgery, you must clip your cat’s claws regularly because she’ll be unable to maintain them herself.

The ASPCA discourages both declawing and tendonectomies because of the extreme pain these surgeries cause. Both procedures are illegal in some European countries because they’re considered cruel to animals. We only recommend such surgeries if a cat caretaker has unsuccessfully tried everything else to resolve scratching behavior and is considering euthanasia.

Start Early
The best approach to teaching your cat to accept having her claws trimmed is to begin while she’s still a kitten. If you begin early, she’ll grow up accepting nail trims as an enjoyable part of life with you. In addition, kittens often haven’t mastered use of their claws, so they benefit greatly from regular trimming.

Teaching Your Cat to Accept and Enjoy Having Her Claws Trimmed
Rest assured, teaching your cat to accept having her claws trimmed is an obtainable goal. What’s required is patience. Plan on taking at least a month just to familiarize your cat with having her paws and toes handled. Depending on her personality, your cat may learn to accept having all her paws done in one sitting, just one paw at a time or just a couple of claws at a time. You’ll be most successful if you don’t expect to trim more than a couple of claws in one sitting. The best time to trim your cat’s claws is when she’s relaxed or sleepy. Never try to give a pedicure right after a stressful experience or an energetic round of play.

Step One: Gather Your Equipment
You’ll need:

• Clippers: Pet nail trimmers are available in two basic styles:  guillotine and nipper. Cat claws are best trimmed with the guillotine clipper or with a human toenail clipper. Replace your clippers regularly, as soon as you notice the blades have grown dull. Dull blades put more pressure on sensitive cat claws. They also cause more torsion and splitting as they cut, making the trimming more uncomfortable and stressful for your cat.
• Special treats for your cat: What special treat you use depends on your cat, but many cats get quite excited about bits of tuna or vacuum-sealed salmon, cooked chicken liver or smelly cheese. Test a variety of treats to see which two or three your cat prefers. Once you’ve decided which treats you’ll use, reserve these for nail trimming only.

Step Two: Massage Your Cat’s Paws
Whether your cat is an adult or a kitten, the first step is to familiarize her with having her paws handled. Teach her that having her paws handled results in her getting delicious treats.

• To begin training, gather your treats in a small cup or bag. Bring them and your cat to a place that’s quiet, where your cat feels comfortable. Her favorite chair in the family room would be a good choice. Choose a time when your cat is sleepy and relaxed.
• Avoid the following places and situations when trimming your cat’s claws:
  • Never trim where your cat can view birds or other wildlife.
  • Never trim in the presence of other cats or pets.
  • Never trim by a window where outdoor cats may pass.
  • Never trim after a bout of play.
  • Never trim if your cat has recently-in the last three to four hours-had an altercation with another animal or has been frightened in any way.

• Once you’ve chosen the place where you’ll do the trimming, sit with your cat on your lap facing away from you.
• If your cat likes to be petted, stroke her a bit. However, if your cat doesn’t like to hold still for very long, don’t pet her.
• If you’re right handed, take one of your cat’s front paws between the fingers of your left hand.
  • Gently take her paw between your index, second finger and thumb, and begin massaging. Massage for no more than the count of three. If your cat tries to pull her paw away, don’t react by pinching her or pulling on her paw. Instead, follow her movement and simply keep your fingers in contact with her paw.
  • After counting to three, gently press the pad of a toe enough to extend the claw.
  • Count to one, release your cat’s paw and immediately give her a treat.

• Repeat these three steps four more times during this session. Pay attention to how your cat reacts and whether she eats the treats readily. If she begins trying to pull her paw away from you, next time hold her paw for a shorter count-even for just one second-before extending her claw and giving her the treat.
• Work with your cat every other day or every third day, handling a different toe each session until you’ve worked with every toe on one of your cat’s front paws.

Step Three: Familiarize Yourself with Your Cat’s Claws
Once you’ve handled all the toes on one paw, work to familiarize yourself with your cat’s claws. Bring the clippers, your special cat treats and your cat to your quiet claw-clipping chair.

• Hold your cat in your lap.
• As before, take one of your cat’s toes in the fingers of your left hand and begin massaging.
• Gently press her toe pad enough to extend the claw. With the claw extended, look for the pink part of the nail, called the “quick,” which contains nerves and blood vessels. When you begin trimming your cat’s claws, you’ll avoid cutting near the sensitive quick. Nicking the quick is painful and will cause bleeding. Blood flow can be stopped by applying a styptic material (sold as powder or in stick form). It’s always a good idea to have this on hand when you start clipping your cat’s nails, just in case you make a mistake and cut the quick.
• Release your cat’s toe and immediately give her a treat.

Step Four: Clipping
Bring the clippers, your special cat treats and your cat to your quiet claw-clipping chair. Hold your cat in your lap.

• Gently take one of your cat’s paws in the fingers of your left hand, and press a toe pad enough to extend the claw.
• Note where the quick is.
• Position the clippers with your right hand about halfway between the end of the quick and the pointed tip of the claw. You’ll trim just the sharp tip off the nail. Once you’re comfortable that your cat accepts trimming, you can clip a bit more of the nail-although you should never clip right next to the quick.
• Clip the nail.
• Release your cat’s toe and quickly give her a treat.

If your cat didn’t seem to notice the trim, do another nail. Don’t attempt to do more than the tips of just two claws at one sitting until your cat is obviously comfortable with trimming.

What NOT to Do
Here are a few things you should never do when trimming your cat’s claws:

• Do not yell at your cat or attempt to punish her in any way.
• Do not cut too close to the quick.
• Do not rush.
• Do not try to do all the claws at once.
• Do not trim when you’re upset or your cat’s agitated.

Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2010 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

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Eggybird / CC BY 2.0

What Is Bad Breath?
Bad breath, also known as halitosis, can be caused by a variety of health problems. Don’t worry, your cat’s breath isn’t supposed to smell minty fresh-but if there’s an extremely strong, fetid odor, there could be an underlying medical problem.

What Could Be Causing My Cat’s Bad Breath?
Most often, bad breath is caused by a build-up of odor-producing bacteria in your pet’s mouth. This can be a result of dental or gum disease; certain cats, in fact, may be especially prone to plaque and tartar. Diet and dermatological issues can also be contributing factors. However, persistent bad breath can also indicate more serious medical problems such as abnormalities in the mouth, respiratory system, gastrointestinal tract, liver or kidneys. In all cases, halitosis is a red flag that should be investigated.

How Can I Determine the Cause of My Cat’s Bad Breath?
Your veterinarian is the best person to pinpoint the cause. A physical examination may reveal the cause of your cat’s problem. If not, further tests will likely be recommended. Be ready to answer questions about your cat’s diet, oral hygiene, exercise habits and general attitude and behavior.

When Is It Time To See The Vet?
The following symptoms will require veterinary attention:
- Excessive brownish tartar on your cat’s teeth, especially when accompanied by drooling, difficulty eating and red, inflamed gums, could indicate serious dental or gum disease.
- Unusually sweet or fruity breath could indicate diabetes, particularly if your cat has been drinking and urinating more frequently than usual.
- Breath that smells like urine can be a sign of kidney disease.
- An unusually foul odor accompanied by vomiting, lack of appetite, and yellow-tinged corneas and/or gums could signal a liver problem.
- Pawing at the mouth

How Is Bad Breath Treated?
Treatment depends on your vet’s diagnosis. If plaque is the culprit, your cat might require a professional cleaning. If the cause is gastrointestinal or an abnormality in your pet’s liver, kidneys or lungs, please consult your vet about steps you should take.

How Can I Prevent My Cat From Having Bad Breath?
Many people assume that bad breath in cats, especially at a certain age, is a “given” – but that’s not the case. In fact, being proactive about your pet’s oral health will not only make your life together more pleasant, it’s smart preventive medicine:
- Bring your pet in for regular checkups to make sure he has no underlying medical issues that may cause halitosis.
- Make sure your vet monitors and tracks the state of your cat’s teeth and breath.
- Brush your cat’s teeth frequently-every day is ideal. (Please be sure to use toothpaste formulated for cats as human toothpaste can upset your pet’s stomach.)
- Discuss home-use oral health products with your veterinarian to see if there’s a type he or she recommends.
- Talk to your vet about feeding a diet that will help to prevent dental disease. Some feel that the abrasive action caused by chewing hard kibble can slow down the formation of plaque.

What Happens If I Ignore My Cat’s Bad Breath?
If left untreated, gum disease and excessive tartar – both causes of bad breath-can lead to infection and tooth loss.

Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2010 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

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Lucky for us, there are vaccines to help prevent many illnesses that affect cats. Vaccinating your cat has long been considered one of the easiest ways to help her live a long, healthy life. Not only are there different vaccines for different diseases, there are different types and combinations of vaccines.

Although vaccination has the potential to protect pets against life-threatening diseases, vaccination is not without its risks. Recently, there has been some controversy regarding duration of protection and timing of vaccination, as well as the safety and necessity of certain vaccines. What does this all mean for your cat? Vaccination is a procedure that has risks and benefits that must be weighed for every patient relative to their lifestyle and health. Your veterinarian can determine a vaccination regime that will provide the safest and best protection for your individual cat. Here are answers to some of your most frequently asked questions regarding vaccines:

What Exactly Are Vaccines?
Vaccines help prepare the body’s immune system to fight the invasion of disease-causing organisms. Vaccines contain antigens, which look like the disease-causing organism to the immune system but don’t actually cause disease. When the vaccine is introduced to the body, the immune system is mildly stimulated. If a cat is ever exposed to the real disease, his immune system is now prepared to recognize and fight it off entirely or reduce its severity.

How Important Are Vaccines to the Health of My Cat?
Bottom line-vaccines are very important in managing the health of your cats. That said, not every cat needs to be vaccinated against every disease. It is very important to discuss with your veterinarian a vaccination protocol that’s right for your cat. Factors that should be examined include age, medical history, environment and lifestyle. Most vets highly recommend administering core vaccines to healthy cats.

What Are Core Vaccines?
The American Association of Feline Practitioners divided vaccines into two categories-core and non-core. Core vaccines are considered vital to all cats and protect against panleukopenia (feline distemper), feline calici virus, feline herpes virus type I (rhinotracheitis) and rabies. Non-core vaccines are given depending on the cat’s lifestyle; these include vaccines for feline leukemia virus, Bordetella, Chylamydophila felis and feline immunodeficiency virus. Your veterinarian can determine what vaccines are best for your cat.

Are Any Vaccines Required By Law?
Each state has its own laws governing the administration of the rabies vaccine. Some areas require yearly rabies vaccination. Other areas call for vaccines every three years. In almost all states, proof of rabies vaccination is mandatory.

How Often Should My Adult Cat Be Vaccinated?
Your veterinarian can best determine a vaccination schedule for your cat. This will depend on the type of vaccine, your cat’s age, medical history, environment and lifestyle. Adult cats might be revaccinated annually or every three years.

When Should My Kitten Be Vaccinated?
Kittens automatically receive antibodies in the milk their mother produces if their mother has a healthy immune system. These antibodies help protect against infectious disease until the kitten’s own immune system develops. When the kitten is around six to eight weeks of age, your veterinarian can begin to administer a series of vaccines at three- or four-week intervals until the kitten reaches 16 weeks of age.

Are There Any Risks Associated With Vaccines?
Immunizations are supposed to mildly stimulate the animal’s immune system in order to create protection from specific infectious diseases. This stimulation can create mild symptoms, ranging from soreness at the injection site to fever and allergic reactions. There are other, less common side effects like injection site tumors and immune disease associated with vaccination. That said, it is important to realize that vaccines have saved countless lives, and play a vital role in the battle against feline infectious disease. As with any medical procedure, there is a small chance of side effects. In most cases, the risks are much smaller than the risks of disease itself. But it is important to talk to your veterinarian about your cat’s medical history before he is vaccinated.

What Symptoms Should I Look For?
Most cats show no ill effect from vaccination. Vaccine reactions are usually minor and short-lived. Clinical signs include:

• Fever
• Sluggishness
• Loss of appetite
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Swelling and redness around the injection site
• Lameness

What Should I Do if I Think My Cat is Having an Adverse Reaction to a Vaccine?
If you suspect your cat is having a reaction to a vaccine, call your veterinarian immediately.

Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2010 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

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by Kymberlie Adams

Most people are familiar with separation anxiety in dogs, but are surprised to hear that it affects cats as well. Cat’s are actually very social creatures, forming strong bonds with people and can suffer just as badly from separation anxiety as their canine counterparts.

Some cats suffering from separation anxiety become agitated when their pet parent prepares to leave, while others seem anxious or depressed. Many become destructive when left alone and may urinate, defecate, scratch furniture or hide in closets or other small areas. Cats may also show their distress in other, less obvious ways such as becoming too anxious to eat or by vomiting. A less common sign that a cat is suffering from separation anxiety may be excessive grooming, to the point of creating a bald spot on areas of the body.

When treating a cat with separation anxiety, the goal is to resolve the cat’s underlying anxiety by teaching her to enjoy, or at least tolerate, being left alone. Here are a few tips to help you along.

Check with your vet. The first step is to discuss the situation with your veterinarian and have your cat undergo a complete physical examination. It is important to rule out any underlying physical problems that may be causing this behavior.

Offer a special treat! Every time you leave the house, offer your cat a favorite catnip toy or treat filled kitty toy, such as a Kong. Be sure to remove these special toys as soon as you return home so that your cat only has access to them when she’s by herself. She will soon learn to associate your absence with a good thing.

Spice up her environment. A cozy window perch that allows a view of the outside can be awfully entertaining to a bored kitty. Carpeted kitty towers with attached toys can be lots of fun, as well. You may also try leaving a radio on, as soothing music or talk radio can be quite comforting. Some cats may be less anxious with another animal in the house, consider adopting a playmate for your kitty.

Increase playtime. Exercising your cat’s mind and body can greatly enrich her life, decrease stress and provide appropriate outlets for normal cat behaviors. Additionally, a physically and mentally tired cat doesn’t have much excess energy to expend when he’s left alone. So bring out the feathered cat chasers, laser pointers and bell-filled balls, and have some fun!

Reinforce good behavior. Don’t make a big deal upon departure or arrival. As tough as it may be, try to ignore your kitty if she begs for your attention when you first get home. Not comforting her until she has calmed down will help reinforce good behavior.

Consider medications. The use of medications can be very helpful, especially for severe cases of separation anxiety. Some cats are so distraught by any separation from their pet parents that anti-anxiety medication is needed. Speak with your veterinarian about this option.

With any behavior modification, time and patience is of the utmost importance. Be sure to praise your cat often to build self-confidence, rather than punishing her for exhibiting bad behaviors. Punishment only increases anxiety and makes the situation worse.

Does your cat suffer from separation anxiety? Comment on this blog post and ask your questions on the Pet Health Exchange.

It can be difficult to give a cat a pill, and some cats get so upset by the pilling process that they start avoiding their pet parents altogether. For this reason, scientists have searched for alternative ways to give cats medicine. One approach tried with medications sometimes used to treat fear and anxiety problems (TCAs and SSRIs) was to give the drug transdermally (though the skin). This was usually done by putting medicine on cats’ ears. However, researchers discovered that only 10% of the medicine was actually absorbed. (Because of this, SSRIs should not be given through the skin.)

A better approach for getting your cat to take her medicine is to find a pharmacist who will compound the medicine for you. After making it into a powder or a liquid, you can put the medicine into a strong-tasting and strong-smelling liquid that your cat likes, like tuna oil. If you give your cat a bit of tuna in oil for a few days in a row, you can then add the medicine to the tuna oil. If your cat won’t eat the mixture, use less medicine at first and gradually add more as your cat accepts it.

Teach Your Cat to Take Her Medicine

You can also use behavior modification to help your cat accept having liquid put in her mouth by following these steps:

1. First, call your cat to a place she likes, such as the area where you keep her food dish. When she comes, give her one of her favorite cat treats. (If your cat doesn’t like cat treats, try something more exciting, like small pieces of fish or chicken.)

2. Gently put your hand on her jaw and hold it for a very brief moment. (Try to release her before she tries to get away.) Just before you release your cat, say “Yes,” and then quickly give her a treat.

3. Practice steps one and two for a couple of weeks, gradually increasing the time that you hold your cat’s jaw. Progress in very slow steps. First, increase from one second to two seconds. When your cat seems totally comfortable with that and doesn’t struggle to get away, you can increase to three seconds. Then increase to four seconds, then five, etc.

4. When your cat will let you hold her jaw for 8 to 10 seconds, help her get her used to letting you stick your finger just inside her mouth. Again, start slowly. Only put your finger in her mouth for a second at first. Say “Yes” just before you remove your finger, and then quickly give your cat a treat. When you can put your finger in your cat’s mouth for about three seconds, proceed to the next step.

5. Now you can teach your cat to allow you to open her mouth. Open her mouth, just a little, for only a second. Before letting go of your cat, say “Yes.” Then give her a treat. Repeat this step until your cat doesn’t resist when you try to open her mouth.

6. When you can open your cat’s mouth wide enough, slip a small bit of treat inside, say “Yes,” and give her a second treat. When your cat seems comfortable with this step, you can move on to Step 7.

7. Finally, open your cat’s mouth, slip in a treat with medicine juice on it, say “Yes,” and give her a real treat.

Where to Find Help

If you need help, a qualified animal behavior expert can give you additional advice and guide you through the steps above. Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) in your area.

Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

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by Kymberlie Adams

Your cat squints at you, then bats her eyes and paws in the air. Wouldn’t you love to know what she’s thinking? Well, your feline may not be talking, but she certainly is communicating! In fact, pet parents can learn a lot about their cat’s state of mind by simply knowing what to look for.

It’s certainly not hard to figure out what your cat is telling you when she meets you at the front door – the waving of her tail says it all. Cats are very expressive animals, using all parts of their bodies to communicate what they’re feeling. While some signals can be a bit more subtle, body postures, facial expressions, and even the position of ears can speak volumes.

Cats often use their tails to communicate their moods. For example, a calm and happy cat holds her tail either relaxed or upright. Drooping tails usually signify unhappiness or impending illness. Tails that appear puffy are a clear indication your cat is either preparing to attack or is very frightened. If the end of your cat’s tail starts to twitch back and forth, she may be annoyed, and it’s best to leave her alone.

Ever moving, a cat’s ears do much more than hear – they also reveal emotions and upcoming actions. Ears perked up mean she’s curious and interested. Add large pupils and a tail held upright, and your cat is ready to play! On the flip side, twitching ears typically indicate your cat is agitated or nervous. If she flattens her ears and pulls her whiskers back tightly, she is definitely in a bad mood.

Like human eyes, your kitty’s eyes dilate and widen with changing moods. If your cat looks at you with eyelids fluttering and drooping, it’s an indication of her trust in you. Wide-open eyes indicate alertness and increased awareness. Eyes half closed signify your kitty is relaxed and ready for a cat nap! A frightened or fearful feline will have wide eyes with pupils that are fully dilated-she may also situate herself in a sideways position. Be aware of narrow, slit-like pupils-this often indicates that your cat in quite irritated!

In order to truly understand your cat’s frame of mind, you must observe her entire body and put the pieces together. For example, when cats are happy and content, they will blink their eyes slowly, knead their paws and purr. This goes back to when they were nursing and would paw their mothers belly to stimulate milk flow and show satisfaction. On the flip side of things, cat’s fur can also be a mood indicator-of fear and anger. If your cat’s hair is standing up on end or her eyes are narrow and her tail is puffy, you’ll know something isn’t right.

Once you learn how to “read” your cat’s postures and signals, you’ll better understand her feelings and motivations and be better able to predict what she is likely to do.

Do you know what your cat is trying to tell you? Comment on this blog post and ask your questions on the Pet Health Exchange.

Cats begin to show visible age-related changes at about seven to twelve years of age. There are metabolic, immunologic and body composition changes, too. Some of these are unavoidable. Others can be managed with diet.

1. Start your cat on a senior diet at about seven years of age.

2. The main objectives in the feeding an older cat should be to maintain health and optimum body weight, slow or prevent the development of chronic disease, and minimize or improve clinical signs of diseases that may already be present.

3. As a cat ages, health issues may arise, including:

• deterioration of skin and coat
• loss of muscle mass
• more frequent intestinal problems
• arthritis
• obesity
• dental problems
• decreased ability to fight off infection

“Yoda” / Photo: Kristen Elkjer

4. Older cats have been shown to progressively put on body fat in spite of consuming fewer calories. This change in body composition is inevitable and may be aggravated by either reduced energy expenditure or a change in metabolic rate. Either way, it is important to feed a diet with a lower caloric density to avoid weight gain, but with a normal protein level to help maintain muscle mass.

5. Talk to your veterinarian about increasing your senior cat’s vitamin E intake. Antibody response decreases as cats age. Increasing the intake of vitamin E in cats older than seven years of age can increase their antibody levels back to those seen in younger cats!

6. Antioxidants such as vitamin E and beta-carotene help eliminate free radical particles that can damage body tissues and cause signs of aging. Senior diets for cats should contain higher levels of these antioxidant compounds. Antioxidants can also increase the effectiveness of the immune system in senior cats.

7. Routine care for geriatric pets should involve a consistent daily routine and periodic veterinary examinations to assess the presence or progress of chronic disease. Stressful situations and abrupt changes in daily routines should be avoided. If a drastic change must be made to an older pet’s routine, try to minimize stress and to realize the change in a gradual manner.

Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

Are you caring for an older cat? Share your comments and question on the Healthy Pet Exchange.

by Kymberlie Adams

Let’s face it, despite rumors to the contrary, most cats are not finicky eaters. In fact, they tend to love food to a fault, often breaking into a chorus of meows each time they hear the kibble bag open. Unfortunately, recent studies show that feline obesity is one of the greatest health concerns facing our beloved furry ones. Carrying extra weight puts a burden on bones and joints, leading to torn ligaments and making arthritis problems worse. Obese bodies are also less able to fight off infections, and are at an increased risk for heart disease, cancer and diabetes.

Determine the Cause

Like their chubby human counterparts, cats usually become overweight from eating more food than they need, and not getting enough exercise. A quick way to see if your feline is overweight is to feel for ribs with the flat of your hand. If you cannot feel the backbone or ribs without pressing, there is too much fat. Occasionally, metabolic disorders can make a cat overweight. So just to play it safe, all overweight cats should have a physical exam and blood and urine tests to rule out any underlying health issues. It is also important to consult with your veterinarian before putting your cat on a food restricted diet—sudden changes can be very harmful to your kitty.

Get That Kitty Active
Most cats spend a great deal of time home alone doing little more than eating and sleeping. Playing with your cat is the best way to provide them with much needed exercise that will help them to burn more calories, reduces their appetite, changes their body composition and increases their resting metabolic rate. Cats often play by chasing, swatting and pouncing—toys like laser pointers and cat dancers encourage this type of activity, while providing quality time between you and your cat. You may also consider adopting a friendly and playful cat from a local shelter so your solitary kitty has a playmate to interact with.

Break Bad Habits
While exercise is very important, the number one reason for cats being too pudgy around the tummy is overfeeding. Most of us keep very busy schedules and tend to overload the cat dish. Talk to your vet about the proper portion size for your cat and feed her accordingly. It’s also wise to stay away from less expensive store brand foods full of highly caloric fillers. They may taste great, but they are not the healthiest choice. Premium cat foods are bit more expensive, but cats will actually eat less of it as they get the nutrition they need from smaller portions.

While it’s easy to concede to that adorable little face, cutting back on treats can also help shed some weight. When your cat is begging for treats, try substituting cuddles or playtime as rewards instead of fatty food treats.

Feline obesity is easier to prevent than to cure, but putting your cat on a diet is well worth it in terms of the quality of life and health your cat will enjoy.

What feeding issues do you have with your cat? Share your comments and questions on the Healthy Pet Exchange.

Are you allergic to your pet? Breathe easy – you can still keep your animal companion!

Although more and more people are discovering the beneficial effects of owning a furry bundle of joy, the fact remains that roughly 15 to 20 percent of the population is allergic to animals. The result? Countless owners in unhappy, unhealthy situations – and their beloved pets are the cause! Allergen is the medical term for the actual substance that causes an allergic reaction. Touching or inhaling allergens leads to reactions in allergic individuals. Symptoms can include red, itchy, watery eyes and nose; sneezing; coughing; scratchy or sore throat; itchy skin, and most serious of all, difficulty breathing.

The most common pet allergens are proteins found in their dander (scales of old skin that are constantly shed by an animal), saliva, urine and sebaceous cells. Any animal can trigger an allergic response, but cats are the most common culprits. People can also become allergic to the urine, dander and saliva of exotic pets such as ferrets, guinea pigs, birds, rabbits and rodents. There is no species or breed to which humans cannot develop allergies. Fur length and type will not affect or prevent allergies. Certain pets can be less irritating than others to those who suffer from allergies, but that is strictly on an individual basis and cannot be predicted.

Once the diagnosis of a pet allergy is made, a physician will often recommend eliminating the companion animal from the surroundings. Heartbreaking? Yes. Absolutely necessary? Not always. Keep in mind that most people are allergic to several things besides pets, such as dust mites, molds and pollens, all of which can be found in the home. Allergic symptoms result from the total cumulative allergen load. That means that if you eliminate some of the other allergens, you may not have to get rid of your pet. (Conversely, should you decide to remove your pet from your home, this may not immediately solve your problems.) You must also be prepared to invest the time and effort needed to decontaminate your home environment, limit future exposure to allergens and find a physician who will work with you. Our three-part program follows:

Improving the Immediate Environment

1. Create an allergen-free room. A bedroom is often the best and most practical choice. By preventing your pet from entering this room, you can ensure at least eight hours of freedom from allergens every night. It’s a good idea to use hypoallergenic bedding and pillow materials.

2. Limit fabrics. Allergens collect in rugs, drapes and upholstery, so do your best to limit or eliminate them from your home. If you choose to keep some fabrics, steam-clean them regularly. Cotton-covered furniture is the smartest choice, and washable blinds or shades make good window treatments.

3. Vacuum frequently using a vacuum equipped with a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate arresting) filter or a disposable electrostatic bag. Other kinds of bags will permit allergens to blow back out of the vacuum.

4. Install an air purifier fitted with a HEPA filter. Our modern, energy-efficient homes lock in air that is loaded with allergens, so it’s smart to let in some fresh air daily.

5. Use anti-allergen room sprays. These sprays deactivate allergens, rendering them harmless. Ask your allergist for a product recommendation.

6. Clean the litter box frequently. Use lowdust, perfume-free filler. Clumping litter is a good choice.

7. Dust regularly. Wiping down the walls will also cut down on allergens.

8. Invest in washable pet bedding and cages that can be cleaned often and easily.

Decontaminating Your Pet

1. Bathe your pet at least once a week. Your veterinarian can recommend a shampoo that won’t dry out his skin. Bathing works to wash off the allergens that accumulate in an animal’s fur.

2. Wipe your pet with a product formulated to prevent dander from building up and flaking off into the environment. Ask your veterinarian to suggest one that is safe to use on animals who groom themselves.

3. Note any symptoms of dermatitis exhibited by your companion animal. Dermatitis often leads to accelerated skin and fur shedding, which will up your allergen exposure.

4. Brush or comb your pet frequently. It’s best to do this outdoors, if possible. (The ASPCA does not recommend keeping cats outdoors, so make sure your feline is leashed if you take him outside.)

Taking Care of Yourself

1. If possible, have someone other than yourself do the housecleaning, litter box work and pet washing, wiping and brushing. If you must clean the house or change the litter, be sure to wear a dust mask.

2. Wash your hands after handling your companion animal and before touching your face. The areas around your nose and eyes are particularly sensitive to allergens.

3. Designate a “pet outfit” from among your most easily washed clothes. Wear it when playing or cuddling with your companion, and you’ll leave other clothing uncontaminated.

4. Find a physician, preferably an allergy specialist, who will make sure that your pet is the cause of your allergies and will help alleviate your symptoms. Medications and immunotherapy (desensitizing shots) can often allow you and your companion animal to remain together happily ever after.

Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

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