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Cat Care

Tips on responsible cat care and cat ownership from WebMD and the ASPCA.

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Conquering Cat Allergies
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"Princess Bartenstein"
/ Photo: Dan Heims
Are you allergic to your pet? Breathe easy - you can still keep your animal companion!

Although more and more people are discovering the beneficial effects of owning a furry bundle of joy, the fact remains that roughly 15 to 20 percent of the population is allergic to animals. The result? Countless owners in unhappy, unhealthy situations - and their beloved pets are the cause! Allergen is the medical term for the actual substance that causes an allergic reaction. Touching or inhaling allergens leads to reactions in allergic individuals. Symptoms can include red, itchy, watery eyes and nose; sneezing; coughing; scratchy or sore throat; itchy skin, and most serious of all, difficulty breathing.

The most common pet allergens are proteins found in their dander (scales of old skin that are constantly shed by an animal), saliva, urine and sebaceous cells. Any animal can trigger an allergic response, but cats are the most common culprits. People can also become allergic to the urine, dander and saliva of exotic pets such as ferrets, guinea pigs, birds, rabbits and rodents. There is no species or breed to which humans cannot develop allergies. Fur length and type will not affect or prevent allergies. Certain pets can be less irritating than others to those who suffer from allergies, but that is strictly on an individual basis and cannot be predicted.

Once the diagnosis of a pet allergy is made, a physician will often recommend eliminating the companion animal from the surroundings. Heartbreaking? Yes. Absolutely necessary? Not always. Keep in mind that most people are allergic to several things besides pets, such as dust mites, molds and pollens, all of which can be found in the home. Allergic symptoms result from the total cumulative allergen load. That means that if you eliminate some of the other allergens, you may not have to get rid of your pet. (Conversely, should you decide to remove your pet from your home, this may not immediately solve your problems.) You must also be prepared to invest the time and effort needed to decontaminate your home environment, limit future exposure to allergens and find a physician who will work with you. Our three-part program follows:

Improving the Immediate Environment
  1. Create an allergen-free room. A bedroom is often the best and most practical choice. By preventing your pet from entering this room, you can ensure at least eight hours of freedom from allergens every night. It's a good idea to use hypoallergenic bedding and pillow materials.

  2. Limit fabrics. Allergens collect in rugs, drapes and upholstery, so do your best to limit or eliminate them from your home. If you choose to keep some fabrics, steam-clean them regularly. Cotton-covered furniture is the smartest choice, and washable blinds or shades make good window treatments.

  3. Vacuum frequently using a vacuum equipped with a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate arresting) filter or a disposable electrostatic bag. Other kinds of bags will permit allergens to blow back out of the vacuum.

  4. Install an air purifier fitted with a HEPA filter. Our modern, energy-efficient homes lock in air that is loaded with allergens, so it's smart to let in some fresh air daily.

  5. Use anti-allergen room sprays. These sprays deactivate allergens, rendering them harmless. Ask your allergist for a product recommendation.

  6. Clean the litter box frequently. Use lowdust, perfume-free filler. Clumping litter is a good choice.

  7. Dust regularly. Wiping down the walls will also cut down on allergens.

  8. Invest in washable pet bedding and cages that can be cleaned often and easily.

Decontaminating Your Pet
  1. Bathe your pet at least once a week. Your veterinarian can recommend a shampoo that won't dry out his skin. Bathing works to wash off the allergens that accumulate in an animal's fur.

  2. Wipe your pet with a product formulated to prevent dander from building up and flaking off into the environment. Ask your veterinarian to suggest one that is safe to use on animals who groom themselves.

  3. Note any symptoms of dermatitis exhibited by your companion animal. Dermatitis often leads to accelerated skin and fur shedding, which will up your allergen exposure.

  4. Brush or comb your pet frequently. It's best to do this outdoors, if possible. (The ASPCA does not recommend keeping cats outdoors, so make sure your feline is leashed if you take him outside.)

Taking Care of Yourself
  1. If possible, have someone other than yourself do the housecleaning, litter box work and pet washing, wiping and brushing. If you must clean the house or change the litter, be sure to wear a dust mask.

  2. Wash your hands after handling your companion animal and before touching your face. The areas around your nose and eyes are particularly sensitive to allergens.

  3. Designate a "pet outfit" from among your most easily washed clothes. Wear it when playing or cuddling with your companion, and you'll leave other clothing uncontaminated.

  4. Find a physician, preferably an allergy specialist, who will make sure that your pet is the cause of your allergies and will help alleviate your symptoms. Medications and immunotherapy (desensitizing shots) can often allow you and your companion animal to remain together happily ever after.


Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

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Posted by: WebMD Blogs at 7:00 AM


Monday, December 21, 2009

People Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Pets
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Chocolate, macadamia nuts, avocados...these foods may sound delicious to you, but they're actually quite dangerous for our animal companions. Our nutrition experts have put together a handy list of the top toxic people foods to avoid feeding your pet. As always, if you suspect your pet has eaten any of the following foods, please note the amount ingested and contact your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

Chocolate, Coffee, Caffeine
These products all contain substances called methylxanthines, which are found in cacao seeds, the fruit of the plant used to make coffee and in the nuts of an extract used in some sodas. When ingested by pets, methylxanthines can cause vomiting and diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and even death. Note that darker chocolate is more dangerous than milk chocolate. White chocolate has the lowest level of methylxanthines, while baking chocolate contains the highest.

Alcohol
Alcoholic beverages and food products containing alcohol can cause vomiting, diarrhea, decreased coordination, central nervous system depression, difficulty breathing, tremors, abnormal blood acidity, coma and even death.

Avocado
The leaves, fruit, seeds and bark of avocados contain Persin, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. Birds and rodents are especially sensitive to avocado poisoning, and can develop congestion, difficulty breathing and fluid accumulation around the heart. Some ingestions may even be fatal.

Macadamia Nuts
Macadamia nuts are commonly used in many cookies and candies. However, they can cause problems for your canine companion. These nuts have caused weakness, depression, vomiting, tremors and hyperthermia in dogs. Signs usually appear within 12 hours of ingestion and last approximately 12 to 48 hours.

Grapes & Raisins
Although the toxic substance within grapes and raisins is unknown, these fruits can cause kidney failure. In pets who already have certain health problems, signs may be more dramatic.

Yeast Dough
Yeast dough can rise and cause gas to accumulate in your pet's digestive system. This can be painful and can cause the stomach or intestines to rupture. Because the risk diminishes after the dough is cooked and the yeast has fully risen, pets can have small bits of bread as treats. However, these treats should not constitute more than 5 percent to 10 percent of your pet's daily caloric intake.

Raw/Undercooked Meat, Eggs and Bones
Raw meat and raw eggs can contain bacteria such as Salmonella and E. coli that can be harmful to pets. In addition, raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin that decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin), which can lead to skin and coat problems. Feeding your pet raw bones may seem like a natural and healthy option that might occur if your pet lived in the wild. However, this can be very dangerous for a domestic pet, who might choke on bones, or sustain a grave injury should the bone splinter and become lodged in or puncture your pet's digestive tract.

Xylitol
Xylitol is used as a sweetener in many products, including gum, candy, baked goods and toothpaste. It can cause insulin release in most species, which can lead to liver failure. The increase in insulin leads to hypoglycemia (lowered sugar levels). Initial signs of toxicosis include vomiting, lethargy and loss of coordination. Signs can progress to recumbancy and seizures. Elevated liver enzymes and liver failure can be seen within a few days.

Onions, Garlic, Chives
These vegetables and herbs can cause gastrointestinal irritation and could lead to red blood cell damage. Although cats are more susceptible, dogs are also at risk if a large enough amount is consumed. Toxicity is normally diagnosed through history, clinical signs and microscopic confirmation of Heinz bodies. An occasional low dose, such as what might be found in pet foods or treats, likely will not cause a problem, but we recommend that you do NOT give your pets large quantities of these foods.

Milk
Because pets do not possess significant amounts of lactase (the enzyme that breaks down lactose in milk), milk and other milk-based products cause them diarrhea or other digestive upset.

Salt
Large amounts of salt can produce excessive thirst and urination, or even sodium ion poisoning in pets. Signs that your pet may have eaten too many salty foods include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, elevated body temperature, seizures and even death. In other words, keep those salty chips to yourself!

Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

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Posted by: WebMD Blogs at 7:00 AM


Monday, December 7, 2009

When You Must Give Up Your Cat
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by Kymberlie Adams

"Charlie the Kitten" / Photo Credit: Tricia Yeung
Giving up a pet is a heart-wrenching decision, but sometimes there seems to be no other option. Shelters across the country are witnessing firsthand the impact of the economic recession on pet parents who can no longer afford to care for their furry friends. In fact, over the past year, the numbers of cats surrendered to shelters has increased considerably as people continue to lose their jobs, their homes or are unable to pay for their pet.

Other pet parents feel forced to give up their kitties because of behavior problems or pet allergies. Whatever the reason, with many millions of companion animals surrendered to animal shelters each year, and countless stray animals roaming the streets, giving up your pet is not a decision to be taken lightly. If circumstances arise that prohibit you from caring for your cat, please consider the following options:
  • Talk with family members and friends about your situation. Someone you know and trust may be able to take your pet permanently, or until your situation improves. You may also wish to list your pet on Petfinder.com and call rescue groups in your area. Do not give up if you do not find a home for your cat right away! Finding an ideal home for a companion animal may take considerable time and effort, but your pet's future is in your hands.

  • Spread the word. Make up fliers, and take out an ad in your newspaper and on the Internet. Post fliers everywhere you can: on bulletin boards at work, in pet-supply stores, even your veterinarian's office.

  • Be sure to screen potential adopters carefully. Ask them for references and inquire about employment, financial stability, and previous pet ownership. Ask to visit their homes before you place your animal to ensure that the environment is suitable, and be sure to follow up with calls and visits.

  • If there is a behavioral issue at hand, know that in most cases there are things you can do to change your cat's unwanted conduct. Before you give up on your pet, please consult a veterinarian, reputable trainer or animal behaviorist for assistance.

  • Do everything you can to make your cat more adoptable. They have a better chance for adoption if vaccinations are current and they are spayed or neutered.

  • Relinquishing your cat to a local shelter should be your last resort. Most animal shelters operate at full capacity, and there is often a waiting list to get an animal into a "no-kill" facility. That said, it is a far better option than leaving her in an empty home or out on the street.


Re-homing a beloved cat is rarely a pleasant experience, and may take a time, hard work and a whole lot of determination. Remember, the goal is to find a loving, caring and, most of all, permanent home for your cat.

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Posted by: WebMD Blogs at 1:16 PM


Monday, November 30, 2009

Cold Weather Tips for Pets
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by Kymberlie Adams

As the temperature begins to drop, we all get a little extra bounce in our step, and our pets do, too. But as we enjoy the brisk beauty of fall, let's keep in mind that winter is right around the corner, and with it, seasonal challenges for our pets. Whether you enjoy making snow angels with your pooch or braving the icy elements on morning walks, outdoor jaunts can pose serious dangers to your pets.

Simple walks through the neighborhood or a romp in the backyard can pose serious risks to our pets. It's important to thoroughly wipe off your dog's paws, legs and stomach when coming back in from snowy or icy weather. Your pooch can easily ingest rock salt or other potentially dangerous ice melting chemicals while self grooming. And keep in mind that your car's antifreeze is also a lethal poison for both cats and dogs. Be sure to thoroughly clean up any spills from your vehicle - even better, consider using products that contain propylene glycol rather than ethylene glycol.

Winter weather can be especially uncomfortable for pets with arthritis, so ask your veterinarian about supplements or prescription medications that may help your pet feel better. A soft, heated bed may be much appreciated, especially by older pets. And for younger dogs who spend a lot of time engaged in outdoor activities, consider getting them a coat or sweater with a high collar or turtleneck with coverage from the base of the tail to the belly. It's also a good idea to increase their food intake, particularly protein, to keep them in tip-top shape.

Feline pet parents, the winter season can be harsh on cats, too. While it's a good idea to keep your cat inside at all times, it's especially important during inclement weather. Cats left outside during sub-zero temperatures are susceptible to hypothermia. Another cold-related problem is frostbite, especially common on ear and tail tips. Consider fortifying your kitty's coat by supplementing her diet with essential fatty acids. Vegetable oils such as canola oil, safflower oil, soybean oil and butter can easily be added to food and will help your cat's coat grow thicker for the cold months.

Don't forget about your neighborhood feral kitties - make it a habit of banging loudly on your car hood before starting the engine. During the winter, outdoor cats sometimes sleep under the hoods of cars. When the motor is started, the cat can be injured or killed by the fan belt.

With its cold and often stormy weather, winter presents many safety challenges to pets both indoors and out. Being prepared and following these simple tips can help you keep your pet safe and warm this season.

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Posted by: WebMD Blogs at 7:00 AM


Monday, November 23, 2009

Behavioral Medications for Cats
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Elf / Photo: Mare Stern
Cats are considered perfect pets by many people because they're relatively self-sufficient. If we provide a few basics - like a clean litter box, fresh water and access to nutritious food - they share our lives without demanding constant care. However, this same benefit can sometimes create problems when things go awry. When a cat develops a behavior problem, pet parents are often at a loss as to how to solve it.

As with dogs, many behavior problems in cats can be resolved with a change in management of your pet or your pet's environment. For instance, litter box problems can often be dealt with by changing the presentation of the box, the litter or other factors associated with use of the box. (For a complete discussion of litter box problems and how to resolve them, please see our article on Litter Box Problems.) Problematic scratching can be fixed by providing suitable scratching surfaces for your cat (please see our article, Destructive Scratching), and overly rambunctious play can be channeled into appropriate activities (please see our articles, Cats Who Play Rough and Nighttime Activity in Cats).

However, sometimes cats develop behavior problems that pet parents can't reduce or resolve. For instance, problems may develop between multiple cats in a household, or a cat might stop using her litter box because of a physical problem that's no longer even bothering her, or a cat might groom herself excessively, to the point of pulling all her hair out.

Jeffrey Jelly Bean / Photo: Mare Stern
When behavior problems like these develop in cats, help is available from qualified professional animal behavior experts, such as Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAAB or ACAAB) or board-certified veterinary behaviorists (Dip ACVB). (Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a qualified professional in your area.) After reviewing the specifics of your cat's behavior problem and all the factors that influence it, a behaviorist can design a successful behavior modification plan to resolve the problem. In some cases, a behavior problem can be treated most successfully with a combination of behavior modification and behavioral medication.

Is Medication Necessary?
You might be reluctant to give your cat behavioral medication and prefer to find a solution that focuses on behavior modification or a change in your cat's environment. However, keep in mind that some problems can be resolved more quickly - and with less distress to both you and your cat - if medication is added to the treatment plan.

The most effective approach to treating a behavior problem in a cat is behavior modification. Behavior modification plans designed by knowledgeable, qualified professionals treat a problem behavior by:
  • Changing the consequences of the cat's behavior

  • Giving the cat an acceptable outlet for her natural behavior or an acceptable behavior to do instead of the problem behavior

  • Using a combination of these solutions

Unfortunately, behavior modification can prove difficult in some situations. For example, natural cat behavior is sometimes at odds with a cat's environment. Many modern households have multiple cats. But cats are solitary hunters, and although they sometimes get along, it's also normal for them to avoid each other. Because living together isn't natural for them, it's sometimes necessary to help cats in a single household learn to accept each other. This can be accomplished through a kind of behavior modification procedure called desensitization and counterconditioning (DSCC). (Please see our articles, Introducing Your Cat to a New Cat and Desensitization and Counterconditioning, for more information.) Sometimes, however, cats are so excited and upset by the sight and smell of each other that DSCC isn't possible. In these cases, behavioral medication can reduce the cats' reactivity to each other enough so that DSCC can be carried out successfully.

Can You Use Medication Instead of Behavior Modification?
Behavioral medication alone isn't usually enough to resolve behavior problems. Medication serves to reduce the emotional part of a situation, but it doesn't resolve the behavioral component. Once medication gets your cat's emotional reactions under better control, behavior modification can be used to change her behavior. For instance, if your cat is afraid of another cat in your home, she might not use the litter box because of her fear. Medication can help your cat be less reactive to the other cat - but it won't help her learn to use the litter box again.

Which Medicines Are Best for What?
For the most part, four types of behavioral medicines are used to treat behavior problems in cats. These medicines are
  • benzodiazepines (BZs),
  • monoamine oxidase inhibitors (MAOIs),
  • tricyclic antidepressants (TCAs) and
  • selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs).

The following table shows different cat behavior problems that have been successfully treated with a combination of medicine and behavior modification:

Behavior ProblemMedicine Type
General timidity SSRI, TCA
Litter box problems caused by anxietyBZ, TCA, SSRI
Urine markingBZ, TCA, SSRI
AggressionBZ, TCA, SSRI
Compulsive behavior, such as excessive grooming SSRI, TCA
Cognitive dysfunctionMAOI


Medicines for Treating Sudden or Severe Fear, or Aggression
Just like antibiotics need to be taken for a while before they begin to fight bacteria, most behavioral medications for cats need to be taken daily for several weeks before they produce results. In situations where your cat is acting aggressive at the slightest sight or smell of another cat or has some other severe reaction to a fear of something else, a few weeks can be too long to wait. Benzodiazepines (BZs) can reduce your cat's reactivity immediately. BZs produce results as soon as they're taken, so they can treat fear or aggression within a few hours.

Some common BZs are diazepam (Valium®), alprazolam (Xanax®), chlordiazepoxide (Librium®), lorazepam (Ativan®) and clonazepam (Klonopin®). BZs work by increasing the activity of a chemical in the brain that interferes with activation of the fear networks.

Dose Effects
You can only know if a drug is working if you have an idea of what effects to expect. The following list offers expected reactions in cats to different doses of benzodiazepines:
  • At low doses, BZs decrease the intensity of excessive behavior and reduce excitability.
  • Moderate to high doses of BZs can reduce anxiety and increase playfulness, but they can also produce impaired movement and thinking, including disorientation. BZs affect some of the same parts of the cells in a cat's brain as alcohol does in a human brain, and they produce similar effects. High doses can produce increased restlessness and anxiety, particularly when an animal is already stressed when given the medicine.

Side Effects
Benzodiazepines can increase appetite and sleeplessness. They can also interfere with learning and memory, so they aren't good choices for long-term use with DSCC.
Health Issues

Benzodiazepines are metabolized in the liver and excreted through the kidneys of a cat, so if your veterinarian advises you to treat your cat with BZs, he should check your cat's liver and kidney function with a simple blood test. If your cat has had problems with her kidneys or liver in the past, be sure to let your veterinarian know.

Medicines for Treating Ongoing Behavior Problems
Behavior problems that involve day-to-day household issues, such as problems between multiple cats within a household, or ongoing problems, such as excessive grooming, are best treated with medicines that are given long term, such as TCAs, MAOIs and SSRIs.

Tricyclic Antidepressants
Tricyclic antidepressants (TCAs) were first used to treat depression in people. They work primarily by increasing serotonin and norepinephrin - two neurotransmitters that are involved in regulation of emotional activity. They also affect other neurochemicals involved in emotional reactivity. The TCAs prescribed most for cats are amitriptyline (Elavil® or Tryptanol), clomipramine (Anafranil® or Clomicalm®), doxepin (Aponal®), imipramine (Antideprin or Deprenil), desipramine (Norpramin® or Pertofrane) and nortriptyline (Sensoval). Every cat is unique behaviorally and physiologically, so while one TCA might not work well for your cat, another TCA could have excellent results.

Although TCAs were originally intended to treat depression in people, they can also reduce anxiety, manage compulsive behavior and help people with anger problems. They've been used successfully in cats to help treat compulsive behavior problems like excessive grooming, reduce reactivity to other cats in the household and treat anxiety problems.

Dosage Schedule
TCAs are prescribed for use every day. If the medicine isn't taken every day, it won't work to treat the behavior problem. TCAs are not usually effective the first day - or even the first few days - that they're taken. Because at least some of their effectiveness comes from the changes they make to the brain, TCAs must be taken for at least two to three weeks before they produce results. Treatment should continue for at least two months before a decision is made regarding the success of the drug.

Health Issues
TCAs are metabolized in the liver and excreted through the kidneys of a cat, so if your veterinarian advises you to treat your cat's behavior problem with a TCA, he should give your cat a simple blood test to make sure these organs are working well before beginning treatment. If your cat has had problems with her kidneys or liver, be sure to let your veterinarian know. It's recommended that a recheck blood test be done every year (twice a year for older cats) to ensure that the medicine hasn't damaged the liver or kidneys.

TCAs should not be used with MAOIs because the combination of these two types of drugs can increase serotonin to unhealthy levels.

Side Effects
TCAs can increase water retention, and water retention produces dry mouth. As a result, some cats might foam at the mouth, and they might also be extra thirsty. Because they're thirsty, they might drink extra water. Water retention can also lead to constipation and even diarrhea. All of these effects can lead to house-soiling problems. TCAs can also cause a sudden increase in heart rate.

Monoamine Oxidase Inhibitors
Monoamine oxidase inhibitors (MAOI) work on similar neurotransmitters as TCAs, but they work differently and with less selectivity, so they have a more general effect on the brain. Selegiline (Anipryl®) is an MAOI that seems to mostly affect the neutrotransmitter dopamine. It's used to treat cognitive dysfunction in older cats, and studies indicate that it can slow aging of the brain.

Health Issues
Some MAOIs can have dangerous side effects when cheese is eaten. Selegiline doesn't fall into this category, but because some humans have reactions to cheese when taking it, pet parents should avoid giving their cat cheese when she's taking selegiline.

MAOIs should not be used with SSRIs because the combination of these two types of drugs can increase serotonin to unhealthy levels.

Selective Serotonin Reuptake Inhibitors
SSRIs affect the brain chemical called serotonin. Common SSRIs are fluoxetine (Reconcile® or Prozac®), paroxetine (Paxil®) and sertraline (Zoloft®).

SSRIs like fluoxetine and sertraline have been successfully used to treat a number of anxiety-related behavior problems, such as fearful avoidance of the litter box, fear of other cats in the household or aggression toward other cats. SSRIs are also useful in reducing compulsive behaviors, such as excessive grooming.

Health Issues
SSRIs are metabolized in the liver and excreted through the kidneys. Even if your veterinarian does a pretreatment blood test to check liver and kidney health, be sure to let him know of any medical problems your cat has or has had in the past. It's a good idea to have your cat's liver and kidneys rechecked each year if she's kept on an SSRI.

SSRIs shouldn't be used with MAOIs because the combination of these two types of drugs can increase serotonin to unhealthy levels.

Dosage Schedule
SSRIs need to be taken every day to be effective. If the medicine isn't taken every day, it won't work to treat the behavior problem. SSRIs are rarely effective the first day and, in fact, can increase anxiety in some cats before they begin to have therapeutic effects. Because SSRIs create changes in the brain, they must be taken for at least six weeks before they produce results. Treatment should continue for at least four months before a decision is made regarding the success of the drug.

Because SSRIs take a few weeks to take effect, some people also treat their cat with another medicine, such as a benzodiazepine, when they begin treatment with an SSRI.

Serotonin (5-HT) Agonists
Buspirone (BuSpar® or Bespar) is the only 5-HT agonist that's used regularly in companion animal behavior treatment plans. It's sometimes used in conjunction with SSRIs and TCAs when treatment begins, but it's also sometimes used by itself.

Dosage Schedule
Like other medicines that act on serotonin, buspirone needs to be taken every day to be effective. If the medicine isn't taken every day, it won't work to treat the behavior problem. Buspirone usually takes about three weeks to produce therapeutic effects, although this period might be shortened if the medication is taken in addition to an SSRI.

Giving Your Cat Her Medicine
If you decide to use a behavioral medication to help your cat overcome a behavior problem, you might run into a challenge when you try to give her medicine. It can be difficult to get cats to swallow pills, and some cats get so upset by the pilling process that they start avoiding their pet parents altogether. To learn how to give your cat the medicine she needs in the least stressful way possible, please see our article on Giving Your Cat a Pill.

Seek the Advice of an Experienced Professional
This article is intended to help pet parents understand common behavioral medications used for cats. It is not intended as a guide to choosing behavior medications. If your cat suffers from fear, anxiety, compulsive behavior or any other behavior problem for which you're considering behavioral medication, be sure to first consult a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB). These qualified animal behavior experts can evaluate your cat's behavior problem and help you develop a treatment plan, give you advice on suitable medications, and work with your veterinarian to maximize the success of your cat's treatment program. Please see our article Finding Professional Help to locate one of these experts in your area.

Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

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Posted by: WebMD Blogs at 9:00 AM


Monday, November 16, 2009

Introducing Your Cat to a New House
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"Remy & Fatty Get Ready to Move"
/Photo: Rebecca Cambreleng
Most cats are not big fans of change. If they could chose, they would prefer to stay where they're already comfortable and settled in. But, at some point in their lives, most cats must move on to a new location. Making the transition as stress-free as possible for your feline companion can have big benefits, including reducing the risk of fear-based house soiling, excessive meowing and crying, hiding, escape attempts and aggression.

Moving a cat to a new house involves three basic aspects: pre-move preparations, the move itself and settling into the new home. All three sections below apply to a move with a resident pet. The third section is most important if you're only trying to integrate a new cat into your existing household.

Preparation
  • Allow your cat time to get used to his carrier. Leave it sitting out with the door open and a comfy bed inside. Occasionally leave a couple of cat treats in it so your cat can find them on his own. Start feeding your cat in the carrier. If your cat is reluctant to enter the carrier to eat, start by just placing his dish next to it. After a few days, put the dish just inside the carrier, right near the opening. Then, over a week or two, gradually move the dish toward the back of the carrier so your cat has to step a little further inside each day. Eventually, place the dish at the very back of the carrier to your cat must go all the way into it to eat.

  • Put out your moving boxes a couple weeks before you need to start packing so your cat has time to get used to their presence. If your cat is nervous while you're packing, he'll probably be happier closed in a quiet room, away from the activity and noise. It's also a good idea to confine your cat if you think he might try to hide in one of the boxes.

  • Try to keep your cat's daily routine as stable as possible. Stick closely to his regular schedule for feeding, play and attention. A feeder with a timer can be helpful to make sure your cat eats at the same time each day.

  • If your cat is very skittish, nervous or easily stressed, speak to your vet about using anti-anxiety medication to make the moving process easier on him.

The Move
  • To prevent your cat from dashing out the door while movers are going in and out, close him in a bathroom with food, water, a bed and litter box. Place a sign on the door asking the movers to keep the door shut.

  • Feed your cat a very small breakfast on moving day to reduce stomach upset.

  • While in transit, resist the urge to open your cat's carrier to soothe him. A scared cat may try to dash out. Only open the carrier in a secure area and when absolutely necessary.

  • Carry a roll of packing tape in case the carrier needs emergency repairs along the way.

Settling into the New House
  • First, cat-proof the new house. Tuck away electrical cords, plug up nooks where a cat could get stuck, make sure that all windows have secure screens, remove any poisonous houseplants and confirm that no pest-control poison traps have been left anywhere in the house.

  • Immediately take your cat to a room that will remain relatively quiet. Before opening the carrier, set up your cat's food and water dishes, litter box and bed. Place some cat treats around the room to encourage your cat to explore.

  • Keep your cat in this one "home-base" room for his first several days in the new house. This will allow him to gradually get used to the sights, sounds and smells of his new home without feeling overwhelmed. Keeping your cat in one room will also make it easy for him to find his litter box, food and water. If you're adding a new cat to a home where there are existing pets, please see Introducing Your Dog to a New Cat or Introducing Your Cat to a New Cat.

  • Spend time with your cat in his home-base room, at first doing low-key activities like reading or watching TV. When he begins to explore, offer your cat attention, treats and playtime.

  • When the flurry of unpacking is over, gradually give your cat access to the rest of the house, one room at a time. If it's not possible to close doors to limit his access, closely supervise your cat during short exploration sessions.

  • Provide a second litter box where you'll want to keep one permanently. Keep the box available in the home-base room for at least a few weeks. Once your cat has settled in, you can remove that box. Alternatively, you can keep the home-base litter box but gradually transfer it to a preferable location. To make sure your cat doesn't lose track of where it is, move the box just a foot or so away from the home-base room and toward your preferred location each day.

Used with permission of the ASPCA, © 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

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Posted by: WebMD Blogs at 7:00 AM


Monday, November 9, 2009

Pretty Kitty: Easy Tips for Grooming Your Finicky Feline
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by Kymberlie Adams

When it comes to personal hygiene, cats are on the mark-they wash their faces after every meal, file their nails on scratching posts and use their tongues as bath sponges. That being said, even the most fastidious felines can use a bit of help to look and feel their best.

Unfortunately, many cats find grooming unpleasant - and who can blame them? It can involve hair pulling, getting soaked with water, and all kinds of scary-looking tools. However, with a few simple tips and a little positive reinforcement, your kitty will be showing off her pampered paws in no time!

Positive reinforcement is the name of the game when it comes to teaching your feline new behaviors. If your cat learns to associate brushing, bathing and nail trimming with wonderful goodies-like tasty treats, catnip toys or belly rubs, she may actually learn to enjoy the spa-like treatments.

Grooming sessions can also be a great time to bond with your kitty and should be fun for both of you. Be sure to schedule them when your cat's relaxed, perhaps after exercise or eating. Keep in mind, a little patience can go a long way. If your cat is extremely stressed out, cut the session short and try again when she's calmer.

Here are a few other great tips to help guide you through some of the more common kitty grooming tasks:

Bath Time
As a rule, cats don't need frequent baths. But if your cat's extra dirty, you may need to give her a good old scrub in the tub. If that's the case, your feline would prefer a minimal amount of water and a wash cloth to do the job. Using a shampoo formulated especially for cats is also important. While human shampoos aren't toxic to pets, many contain fragrances or other substances that can irritate pets' skin, drying it out and destroying their natural oils.

Brushing 101
Brushing your cat's fur is one of the easiest things you can do to help maintain her stunning looks-it's also one of the most essential. Proper combing removes dead hair and skin, helps spread natural oils throughout her coat and prevents tangles from forming. It also reduces the risk of those icky hairballs, which are a nuisance and can create harmful intestinal blockages. For cats with short hair, weekly brushings should be enough to keep their coats in tip-top shape. Those with longer tresses may require more sessions with the brush. Be sure to match the comb or brush to your cat's coat type.

Nail Trimming
While this task can seem quite daunting, trimming your cat's nails is vital to her well-being. If nails get too long, they can easily break, causing pain and infection. Most people really don't handle their cats' feet until they are about to clip the nails, but it's a good idea to get your cat used to having her feet touched before you attempt a trim. Be sure to use only professional-grade cat nail clippers and only clip the hook of the nail. If you're not sure how to go about the chore or if your cat downright refuses to let you clip her claws, ask your vet or a professional groomer for assistance.

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Posted by: WebMD Blogs at 11:29 AM


The opinions expressed in the WebMD Blogs are of the author and the author alone. They do not reflect the opinions of WebMD and they have not been reviewed by a WebMD physician or any member of the WebMD editorial staff for accuracy, balance or objectivity. WebMD Blogs are not a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Never delay or disregard seeking professional medical advice from your physician or other qualified health provider because of something you have read on WebMD. WebMD does not endorse any specific product, service or treatment. If you think you have a medical emergency, call your doctor or dial 911 immediately.

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